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AM Weekly: It's all in the fit.

#AMWEEKLY July 21, 2017

A Letter From Alexis!

We're mixing things up a bit at AM.

Each week, we'll be posting a letter from our founder/designer/jack of all trades, Alexis, on the blog. Expect updates on what's going on at the AM office - a closer look into what goes into designing, manufacturing and turning our ideas into a reality, for you to enjoy.

Check out the first one below!

Hi!

In an effort to be more transparent about the day-to-day at AM, I'll be sharing more frequent updates and behind the scenes with you. I wanted to start by addressing the fit of our leggings that recently shipped. Thank you to everyone who got in touch, I'm glad we were able to arrange for exchanges. For those of you who don't already know, all return/exchange shipping is on us. :)

Over the past few weeks we have been getting feedback about the fit of our printed leggings being slightly on the small side. I am here to let you know that we are reacting to this immediately and adjusting the spec. Our leggings will be more true to size, starting with our new collection that is launching this September, so I'd recommend ordering your usual size then. We appreciate all of your feedback (seriously). Don't be afraid to speak up, we want you to love your AM gear just as much as we do. It's certainly not easy to cater to every body type, but we are trying and always looking for ways to improve.

So, here's quick explanation as to why they are slightly small. Have you ever noticed that when you wear printed leggings, the print stretches out so much that you can see the white base fabric? We're trying to avoid that. We started cutting our leggings cross grain instead of straight grain, so the print doesn't stretch open. Straight cut is when you cut the garment straight across the fabric width from selvedge to selvedge, cutting with the grain of the fabric (selvedge = finished outside edges of the fabric).

Cross grain is when you cut a garment lengthwise on fabric, across the grain of the fabric rather than with the grain. Garment Production 101 coming at you today! Generally our garments are cut straight grain, but there is no rule for how you have to cut! There really are no rules when it comes to production, it's honestly a constant learning curve and I'm always looking for/testing new ways to ensure that our products have the best fit/quality possible. Check out the diagrams below for a better understanding of straight grain cutting and cross grain cutting.

Straight grain garment cutting

Cross grain garment cutting

By cutting cross grain, we have reduced the amount that our prints stretch out, but our fabric doesn't stretch quite as much on the cross grain, which has caused our leggings to come in a bit small. We did fit our leggings after deciding to cut them cross grain, and noticed the spec was slightly smaller, but felt it was tolerable. Now that we have more feedback, we're making a few minor adjustments. Corrections have already been made for our collection that's dropping this September.

We have a very rigorous fitting process, and sometimes go through five patterns before we are pleased and ready to go into production. We fit our garments on various sizes and body types, to make sure we're including everyone. It is a priority for us to work closely with pattern makers here in NYC, and we feel so lucky to be able to communicate with them face to face, rather than through tech packs and back and forth email communication. A good pattern is like gold (literally), they are not cheap! Depending on how detailed the style is, they can range from $150 - $400 per pattern. Here's a pattern from a new legging we're working on that has super flattering contour seams - can't wait!

Legging garment pattern

Coming up! 

Stay tuned next week, I'll be sharing more about our close knit team of women and will be revealing a new location, where you can shop AM gear in person. 

Wishing you a wonderful weekend!

Happy Weekend

 

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